Rick Owens’ Faun on Springblades, Paris Men’s SS15


When one thinks of the Ballet Russes, so frequently mined in fashion, most memorably by Yves Saint Laurent in his spring 1976 couture collection, one imagines a sniewy, androgynous creature. So when Rick Owens mentioned Nijinsky’s “l’Après-Midi d’un Faune” as inspiration, it was a surprise to see how he brought this into his own, more substantial, chunkier, men’s wear. As usual, the first look said the most: a stiff, bleached denim tunic with geometric seaming and hem destruction over huge, stand-away black shorts and the best shoe collaboration: a rubbery, pinched-together, boot in pewter metallic or matte white with a squishy Adidas Springblade sole.




The tunics gradually became dress-like and some of Owens’ fauns were sprayed head to toe in the collection’s clay colors. There was little distinction between jackets and coats here; a reminder of the simplified, multipurpose way men dress today. Mid-show, Owens turned into a sculptor, twisting fabric around the body in proper faun mode, but he was soon back to tunics, mixing leather and silky fabric color blocks. One-shoulder chest harnesses were warrior-like, and the full body embroideries on color block coats were marvelous flights of fancy. RV


Images by Valerio Mezzanotti

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