Coperni, a.k.a. Sebastién Meyer and Arnaud Vaillant, is a new French label in it’s first season competing for the 2014 ANDAM First Collections prize that comes with a grant of 75,000€. “We were dreaming about Nicolas Copernic’s heliocentric model of the universe. Our label is all about the sun and light, everything that is vital to life,” says Vaillant. “We wanted to create an idea of movement in the clothes,” says Meyer.
Belgian designer Bruno Pieters has always positioned his work on fashion’s less is more side. Currently he’s Creative Director of menswear for Delvaux, Belgium’s celebrated leather maker where fellow Belgian Veronique Branquiho heads the women’s side.
A graduate of the Royal Academy of Anvers, Pieters worked for Maison Martin Margiela, Josephus Thimister and Christian Lacroix Haute Couture before he produced his first solo show at Paris’ Haute Couture in July 2001; a collection of 24 suits inspired by Dior’s ‘new look.’ He has gone on to win a slew of young designer competitions: Elle style award in 2008, France’s Andam award in 2007, Swiss Textiles’ award in 2006 and Fortis bank’s most promising designer in 2000.
Pieters’ geometric, scalpel cuts never fail to put an angular edge on womanly curves. There’s something of the Hitchcock heroine to his look. So when I heard he had designed an eyewear collection to be distributed by Netopic I was eager to see what he would do with fashion’s most architectural exercise. Lean, clean frames, beginning with this spectacular black and white pair show that Pieters has maintained his rigorous viewpoint for 2010. The styles for men and women come in eight colors and are available at selected stores.
Who better to show off the aching desirability of the new Mercedes-Benz SLS AMG than photographer Nick Knight and Gareth Pugh with the lovely Julia Stegner. Knight had an open brief apparently to photograph this Bond-worthy sportscar which he promptly positioned in a nose dive as a backdrop to Pugh’s space age tailoring and Julia’s endless legs. The preview is set for Mercedes-Benz Fashion week in January.
My first question is: why didn’t someone think of this before?
Forget the usual swimsuit lineup, almost everyone looks fantastic on a bike. It must be something about engaged muscles and coordination. For it’s 2010 calendar, the Swiss Institute in New York, has produced Artists on Their Bicycles New York 2010, in a limited numbered edition of 500. The usual subjects are proudly represnted from February’s Collier Schorr to Pierre Huyghe, for November and David Byrne and Cindy Sherman in December . My personal favorite is October’s Ryan McGinley who always creates a stir wherever he goes. The calendar, edited by Emma Reeves, Gianni Jetzer and Design Li, Inc is photographed by the incomparable Lukas Wassmann (http://www.lukaswassmann.com), a young Swiss photographer who lives between Berlin and Zurich who has one of the best takes on the genially absurd I’ve seen in years.
Grainy grey Monday morning in Paris and guess what flashes on my computer. A Christmas gift idea from my friend Mandi Lennard, London PR extraordinaire. Who knew that Comme des Garçons’ Rei Kawakubo has a “Jungle Flowers nonsense theme” for the holidays? Well all the CDG fans in Japan, of course, as this Platinum Label Collection Barbie, dressed in a the nonsensical Jungle pixelated rose print gown by Rei, was a sell out last week over there. And now it’s available at Comme des Garçons stores all over the world and at London’s Dover Street market, of course. For those not into dolls, there’s wallets, T’s, scent, Artek chairs and snowballs.
Cutlog (October 22-25) http://www.cutlog.org/ is the newest addition to Paris’s art fair circuit and it arrives at a time when the Fiac, (Foire Internationale d’Art Contemporain), is looking better than ever. Paris’s Fiac with its emphasis on established, modern artists attracts about 60,000 visitors annually on a par with London’s Frieze, held a week previously. But while Paris and the Fiac have tended to look a bit dowdy over the past few years, compared to the more contemporary selection in London, the financial crisis which has taken a much bigger bite out of contemporary art sales than Impressionist and modern art, has altered the perspective.
Bruno Hadjadj launched Cutlog with more inspiration than connections because he’ never let obstacles get in the way of a good idea. A sculptor and set designer who runs Spree, one of the city’s best fashion stores with his wife Roberta, he’s an autodidact. In 2006, when legendry club CBGBs closed in New York City, Hadjadj was on the pavement front and center—nearly forty-eight sleepless hours— to document the crowd who came to pay their respects. The results turned into “Bye Bye CBGB,” his self published visual account of the event. That same year he also produced and directed “Banditos,” along the Eastern seaboard, a handmade road movie.
Participating at Cutlog are about 30 galleries from Germany, the U.S., Italy, Spain, the U.K. and France including Paris’s Artfact and Berlin’s Kwadrat, Icoba, a new artistic coalition from New York and Spain’s Raina Lupa from Barcelona. “The common denominator with the galleries participating is that Cutlog is their first spot in a major art fair. They’re all very closely involved with the artists they represent as well. It’s almost more familial than commercial,” says Hadjadj who was surprised by the decrease in video. “There is a real return to painting,’ he adds, “and photography is now at the same level.”
Held at Paris’s old Bourse de Commerce, a circular building in the center with an iron and glass dome Victor Hugo once likened to a jockey’s cap, Cutlog is close to the Centre Pompidou and not far from the Jeu de Paume at Concorde and the Fiac, held at the nearby Grand Palais, the Louvre’s Cour Carée and the Tuileries gardens. The location gives Cutlog an advantage over Slick (October 23-26), Paris’s other young fair, staged at Centquatre in the 19th, the huge arts center recently opened on the site of what was once the city’s municipal funeral complex.
Fashion detectives on your mark. Match the shoes to fit this gallery of stylish suspects:
Colette asked J.M. Weston—French footwear doesn’t get any more classic—to produce a mini collection of shoes—10 in all— designed by André, Gildas Loaec and Masaya Kuroki of Kitsuné, Olivier Zahm, Olympia Le Tan, Joséphine de la Baume and the Cazals. The result is available by special order at Colette from October 11-17.
It’s a sunny Monday morning in Paris, but it’s raining collaborations. First off, Sonia Rykiel is H&M’s next guest designer. Expect a selection of lingerie in store on December 5 and a Spring 2010 collection of her stripey knitwear hits on February 20. And don’t forget Jimmy Choo spikes for H&M on November 14. That’s just about when Rei Kawakubo’s Beatles bags will hit London’s Dover Street market.
Yes, Kawakubo’s Comme des Garçons’ has signed a deal with Apple Corps Ltd, (the company which manages The Beatles’ musical catalogue and image, for a collection of bags under The Beatles/Comme des Garçons label available at DSM and at Gyre in Tokyo in mid-November. WWD reports the deal is long term and might extend to T-shirts.
And because news always comes in threes, Kitsuné, the elegant Paris classics label from DJ’s Gildas Loaec and Masaya Kuroki, moves into Colette today. Boutique Kitsuné Maison is a gingham-covered pop-up shop at the store featuring Kitsuné record label’s CDs and clothes for classically funky men and women through October 3.
Elle magazine is one of the things that makes Paris fashion go round, so it’s fitting that Superfluparis would start on a Friday, the day Elle hits the stands. For those far form the hexagon, but ever in need of a Paris style fix, here’s what the world’s biggest fashion weekly has to say about la mode a few days before Paris Spring 2010 fashion week.